So, in order to walk around with out looking like a total weirdo, and to respect the people and culture of Saudi Arabia I need to wear an abaya when I am there. An abaya is a long black dress that you put on over clothes when you go out, like a coat (sort of). It is the national dress in Saudi, and most women there will also cover their heads with a scarf. You don't have to, but I plan on doing it just to avoid unwanted attention.
I am a sucker when it comes to costumes and historical fashion and dress-up, so when it came time to come to terms with the abaya it was not that difficult for me. Women from the region began dressing in this fashion about 4,000 years ago. Covering then was more about class than religion. Wearing a veil was a sign of luxury and privilege, given to the women who did not have to work. If you were doing anything difficult, why would you want to deal with the extra layers! Being a mom is a tough enough job, I don't really want more layers. But, I thought I should get my abaya early to test it out in the Minnesota summer heat, and see how it works around Mariam.
Mike took us to one of the Somali Malls in Minneapolis. It was a big warehouse type building with cars packing the parking lots and groups of intimidating looking Somali men chatting outside. We stepped in and it smelled like 300 different types of incense. There were stores lining every inch of space around the perimeter and the middle of the building. The halls were packed tight with racks of every color and texture fabric you could dream up. Each shop looked as if it were a heavily decorated shoebox diorama with a little person or two inside. Somali women and men sat in chairs surrounded by walls made up of skirts and scarves and CDs and shoes and foods and gifts, all foreign looking to me.
We quickly found a women's clothing area. Mike and I asked a very elderly looking woman for help with an abaya. She got a hook and took down one from the ceiling of her shop. Three other women huddled around me, helping me get the black dress over my head. The oldest taught me how to secure the scarf, wrapping it over and over, giving me little bits of direction in her language. Mike gave them cash and we left to go explore a bit more. I will give you Minneapolis Hipster girls a hint: If you are looking for a perfect unique skirt, or any color or texture of scarf, the Somali mall is the place to go. Things are super cheep and way cooler than Target, Urban Outfitters, American Apparel or thrift shops for that matter. And no one else in your circle would probably have the guts to go in a find a copycat. Really beautiful things.
We walked back out to the car. I had not taken off my new abaya so I could take it for a test drive. My first words were about five steps out the door, "hot. hot. hot. hot." Mike suggested that we walk slower thinking that our quick pace was too much for me. I explained that it was not my body making the heat, it was the sun baking into the matte black fabric.
Wearing an abaya is very similar to wearing your high school or college graduation gown. It is kinda neat, you feel sort of important, but as a girl you pull at the waist trying to define your cute shape a bit more. I know that defies the point. Anyway, it is about the same weight as I remember the black polyester grad gown being, but a bit longer.
I had no problems getting Mariam in her car seat and did not trip or get my sleeve caught in the car door. Besides being warm, it was no trouble at all wearing an abaya, so far. Next stop was Target to pick up some things. I felt like a cross cultural mess as I got out of the car and my insecurities kicked in. A German/Norwegian girl in Moccasins and a black Abaya. What if my scarf flew off! Then I realized the worst part of the Abaya. NO POCKETS. I am a pocket user, especially in the summer when I don't want a heavy hot purse on my shoulder. My phone was under my abaya in my left pocket and my cash was in my right pocket. I had to hike up the black to get to my little jean skirt underneath. That felt really revealing and scandalous even though I have no problem going out in just a little skirt. I want an abaya with pockets. Target went fine, no one cared. People won't even think twice of me in Saudi, unless I go without my abaya.
